Manchester: locura de domingos felices

03 Sep 2010


sommelier-of-coffee-uk2Una mitología rockera rebautizó “Madchester” a esta ciudad industrial del noroeste de Inglaterra, por la locura general ambiente que contagia e inspira a sus más célebres vecinos, desde los Stone Roses y Oasis hasta los Happy Mondays. Domingos felices son los que se viven acá, en Manchester: con el brunch instalado como tradición británica (a todo le ponen huevos revueltos, God save the Queen!), en este mediodía celebro el desayuno-almuerzo en Nero, una cadena de cafeterías más gourmet que Starbucks, donde la novedad del momento es el instantáneo VIA, que parece languidecer en la soledad de la góndola. En Nero, el café se sirve en tazón de cerámica (aunque también existe la versión take-away en vaso de cartón) y los hallazgos vienen desde la pastelería: la infusión se acompaña con una colación de panettone clásico, apenas un pan dulce en medida individual para el nostálgico de las navidades, y con granos de café bañados en chocolate amargo, que se venden en cajitas de cartón individuales, como las del maní que acompañó tantas matinés de cine infantil. Orgullosos, en Nero se agrandan: “Servimos el mejor espresso de este lado de Milán”, discuten como slogan. Del otro lado de la calle rivaliza Costa Coffee, la cadena popular inglesa que decora sus locales con vistosas margaritas multicolores y que, como lema, pregunta: “What do you feel like today”. El inventazo de los hermanos italianos Bruno y Sergio Costa abrió su primer local en Vauxhall Bridge Road en 1971 y ya van por 1069 tiendas sólo en Inglaterra (tienen presencia en otros 27 países). ¿Un filón? Los tanos vendieron su empresa a la Whitbread Company en una millonada, con su bien ganada fama de maestros cafeteros. Hoy, el arcoiris que viste sus locales parece un involuntario homenaje a la populosa comunidad gay de Manchester, que justo celebra su semana del orgullo y que lleva a las calles, en alegre comunión con los rockeros, a las locas de este lado de Milán.




“Como beber café sin cafeína”

Mientras aún resuenan los ecos de la Semana del Orgullo Gay en Manchester, el Vaticano se luce con la comparación: “Una relación entre homosexuales es como beber café descafeinado, que no te despierta”. La brillante pieza de ironía eclesiástica le pertenece al curita Gonzalo Miranda, profesor de Bioética de la Universidad Regina Apostolorum de la Santa Sede.

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