Gimme! Coffee: espresso italiano al paso

10 Dic 2011


Si el poder estimulante de la cafeína está fuera de toda discusión, esta diminuta cueva del barrio de Nolita (“North of Little Italy”) parece apenas un garito montado para ofrecer alivio al que padece síndrome de abstinencia, tan lejos de las cafeterías romanas. “Dame café”, se pide. Y se recibe. En la planta baja de un típico edificio de ladrillo colorado revestido por las escaleras de incendios, el localcito de Gimme! Coffee no tiene lugar para mesas ni sillas: apenas una banqueta junto a la vidriera y un banco que rodea un árbol, donde el bebedor de espressos hace malabares con la taza, el platito, la cuchara, el vasito. En dosis hiperconcentradas, el café en su mínima expresión y máximo gusto. Esta tarde se tuestan, se muelen y se sirven variedades especiales: Colombia Finca San Luis, que se describe como “jugoso, con aromas a guayaba, manzana y naranja” y El Salvador Miralballe, “avinado y con notas dulces a durazno blanco”. En un puñado de metros cuadrados, el espacio es escaso pero abunda la poesía.

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